New To Makeup Series: Makeup Brushes - Eye

Getting good makeup brushes made the biggest improvement to the quality of my makeup application.  In this post I review my favorite eye makeup brushes, and mention a few misses.  Although I like many of these brushes, I don't think it's necessary to buy all of these brushes at once.  One from each category is sufficient to get you started.   Also, it's best to buy brushes as you need them for specific techniques or looks.

For more of my thoughts on makeup brushes in general and an overview of my favorite face brushes check out the face brush post.  You don't need to buy the EXACT brushes I mention here - the shape is what's important.

In this picture, I have arranged the brushe in order of preference for each section, so if I had to buy only one brush from each section, then the one I listed first would be it.

FLAT SHADER BRUSHES
Flat shader brushes are used to apply color to the lid.  A good shader brush will hold a lot of shadow and apply that shadow evenly across the lid. The MAC 239 is hands down the best shader brush I have ever used.  It is great at packing on color to the eye lid, because it not only holds a good amount of shadow at one time, it also is just the right size to fit the lid with precision.  For more precise color application, I really like the MAC 228.  It is a teeny shader that is great at applying color to just a portion of the lid, or to the bottom lashes.  For loose pigments, I find a brush with some synthetic bristles cuts down on the amount of fallout.  So for loose pigments, I really like the MAC 242.  I also like the 242 for cream shadows and even concealer.  The MAC 252 is a larger sibling of the 242.  I find it too big for anything, and don't use it very much.

BLENDING BRUSHES
Blending brushes are used to blend edges of the shadow, and to blend between colors.  The MAC 217 is the best blending brush I own.  In fact, if I had to choose only one eye brush, I would choose the 217.  It is just stiff enough to be effective, but still fluffy enough to be a great blender.  Because it's slightly flat and slightly tapered, it is also quite good at applying color to the entire lid.  I also use the 217 to sweep a mid-tone color into the crease.  For blending the highlight shaow to the crease color, there is nothing better than the MAC 227.  This dense brush looks really big and clumsy, but it is a champion blender.  It is also good at sweeping color onto the lid, or onto the whole eye area.  And as a bonus, the 227 is big enough to be used to apply highlight to the cheekbone.  The MAC 226 is a great brush for more detailed crease work. Its fine tip allows for a more defined crease color application and for application of color more precisely into the outer corner.  Finally, when it comes to blending eye shadow, the MAC 224 is absolute rubbish.  The 224 too big, too flat on top, and too soft.  Stick to blending out concealer with this one.

EYE LINER/BROW BRUSHES
My favorite brush for gel eyeliner application is the Sonia Kashuk bent eye liner brush.  It is just the right thickness and the angle allows easier application of the liner.  For a more precise or finer line, I like the MAC 210.  The MAC 209 is also a good liner brush, but gives a thicker line.  For brows, I like the MAC 208.  It is smaller and stiffer than the MAC 266.  I also use both the 208 and the 266 to apply shadow over my gel liner to set it, and to make it more blended and less severe.

SPECIALTY EYE BRUSHES
There are several brushes that I use reglarly that do not fit into any of the above categories.  My favorite of these specialty brushes is the MAC 205.  The 205 is intended to apply mascara, but I use it to declump my mascara once it's applied.  The bristles are short, stiff and fine, so they work themselves between lashes perfectly, separating them and rmoving any clumps.  I also often reach for the MAC 219 pencil brush, using it to apply shadow to the lower lashes, into the inner corner, to just the arch of my brow, and to the outer corner.  In short, this brush offers the utmost precision, wherever it is needed.  The MAC 214 s great at smoking out eye liner, applying shadow over gel eye liner, an applying shadow to the lower lahes.  Finally, I often reach for my spoolie brush for combing out my brows or lashes.  The one I have is from Anastasia of Beverly Hills - I got it in a brow kit.  However, for the longest time I used a mascra wand that I washed after the mascara was done, and it worked just as well.

That's it for brushes.  Don't forget to clean your brushes regularly - check out my brush cleaning tutorial.  Which are your favorites?  Which do you regret buying?

New To Makeup Series: Makeup Brushes - Face

I love makeup brushes, and I have a lot of them.  Good makeup brushes made a HUGE difference to the quality of my makeup application.  I do rcommend that you invest in good makeup brushes, they are worth the extra price tag.  And if you take care of them, they will last you a long time.  Check out my brush cleaning tutorial. 

I recommend that you buy makeup brushes one at a time, instead of all at once.  Choose brushes based on what you need.  For example, summer is on its way and you got a bronzer, and now you need a good brush to apply it.  Don't just buy brushes because someone else loves them, or because they're limited edition, or because you're at the makeup counter, and the makeup artist told you they love that brush.  My best brush purchases were researched ahead of time and/or planned way in advance.

The following is a review of face brushes I recommend.  For each category, the order of the brushes is my order of preference.  I have all of these brushes, and have used them all for at least 1 year - which is the last time I bought a makeup brush.  For several reasons, most of the brushes I use daily are MAC brushes.  MAC brushes are good quality (you get what you paid for), MAC stands behind their products (I have exchanged a faulty brush once), and there are MAC counters everywhere.  Also, I learned a lot about makeup application from youtube gurus and fellow bloggers, and they all use MAC brushes.  I found that having the same brushes made it easier to replicate the looks. 

Although I think the brushes mentioned below are good quality, and recommend them to you, I realize that they are quite expensive.  There are cheaper alternatives out there that are similar in shape and performance.  I recommend the Sonia Kashuk line of brushes - good quality at much more affordable prices.  If you are vegan and want synthetic alternatives, check out Lumiere Cosmetics. 

Regarding Sigma brushes:
I know that Sigma Makeup makes a whole series MAC 'dupes'. I have not tried these brushes, and I have heard mixed reviews, so I am reluctant to recommend Sigma brushes to you.

A note about MAC brush numbering:
MAC brushes are numbered, which I found really confusing when I started.  I have not found much pattern in the numbering system, other than face brushes are numbered in the 100s, eye brushes are 200s, and lip brushes are 300s.

ALL OVER BRUSHES

If you are a mineral makeup wearer like me, then a kabuki (such as the MAC 182) is a must.  It is the best way I found to apply minerals.  It's also great for blending out blush when I go overboard with application.  The only other all over face brush that I use regularly is the MAC 134, which is BRILLIANT for applying bronzer or loose powder.

BLUSH BRUSHES

The MAC 168 is a dense and super soft brush, and is great for applying blush, especially if the blush is very sheer.  I must warn you that if the blush is very pigmented, the 168 is likely to cause a clown effect.  It is also a great brush for contouring.  If I was to live with only one blush brush, I would choose the 168.  If I want a lighter dusting of blush, I reach for the MAC 129.  It's bigger, fluffier, and blends the blush more as it applies.  Also in the blush lineup is the MAC 109.  This brush is almost like a mini kabuki, dense and flat.  It gives a more precise application, but blending is more work.  It also sheds more than all of my other brushes combined.  The 109 only made the list because so many people love it that you will be tempted to buy it.  I would skip this one in lieu of the 168.

STIPPLNG BRUSHES (A.K.A. SKUNK BRUSHES, A.K.A. DUO FIBRE BRUSH)

A good skunk brush is a great tool for applying highlighter and pigmented blush.  They're great for cream blushes and foundation as well.  These brushes are great because they cover a large area with a   MAC makes two skunk brushes, the MAC 187 and the MAC 188.  The 187 is larger than the 188.  If you plan to use your skunk brush for foundation as well as blush, then the 187 is the way to go.  However, if you want more precision and plan to use it for applying blush and highlighter, then go with the 188.

CONCEALER BRUSHES

I primarily use concealer for under-eye circles.  I mostly use the MAC 224 (intended as an eye blender brush) as an under-eye concealer brush.  I dab the concealer onto my skin with my ring finger and then blend with the 224.  For the occasional blemish, I like the MAC 195.  Unlike most concealer brushes I've tried, it has a sharper tip (not just wide and oval), so it's more precise.

FOUNDATION BRUSHES

I am not a frequent liquid/cream foundation wearer.  When I do wear liquid foundation, I like to apply it with my fingers or with a damp sponge.  However, I have successfully applied foundation with the MAC 187 and MAC 109 - both are decent.

Check out the scoop on eye brushes in the next post in this series. 

What are your favorite brushes? 

New To Makeup Series: Basic Tools

When it comes to beauty tools, the number one rule is: "Quality, not quantity".  I do believe that you get what you paid for. So you're better off getting one or two good brushes, than a whole brush set that may not be good quality.  I feature MAC brushes here because I am most familiar with them - it is what I use daily.  I know that Sigma Makeup makes a whole series MAC 'dupes'.  I have not tried these brushes, and I have heard mixed reviews, so I am reluctant to recommend Sigma brushes to you.

To get you started, there are only a few tools that are key to getting the basic face.

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The most economical beauty tool is the humble Q-tip, which can be used to smudge eye liner, apply shadow, blend shadow, and remove any mistakes (such as blobs of mascara).  I always have q-tips on hand when I'm applying makeup, especially since I have deep set eyes and my mascara often transfers from my top lashes to my lid. 

A pencil sharpener will keep your eye liners and lip liners sharp and precise.  Invest in a good quality makeup pencil sharpner, as they are designed to waste as little product as possible while sharpening.  A cheap sharpener will chew through your pencils quickly, and you will be throwing your money out with the shavings.

Curling your lashes before you apply mascara will open up your eyes dramatically.  My favorite eyelash curler is the legendary one from Shu Uemura.  This curler is great because it magically grabs every lash at the same time - even those little ones at the inner corner.

As a mineral makeup wearer, I can not imagine my life without a good kabuki.  The MAC 182 is so far the best kabuki I have tried.  Check out my kabuki review.  The kabuki is also great at blending blush, especially when you've overdone it.

The best eye makeup brush I have ever met is the MAC 217.  This brush does it all.  It applies shadow well, and blends like a dream.  You can use it to apply your cream shadow, or better yet, use it to blend the edges of the shadow.  You can even use it to apply and blend your concealer.  This brush does it all.

Most makeup artists will tell you that your eyebrows frame your face. As such, it is important that they are well shaped, but not over plucked.  Check out my mini review of my favorite tweezers by Anastasia.  Stay tuned for some tips on shaping your brows in an upcoming post.

And of course, the most important makeup tool you already own are your hands.  Make sure your hands are clean before you start applying makeup.   Your hands are great for cream products, because their heat gently warms the product, allowing it to apply smoother and blend easier.  Use your hands to apply and blend foundation perfectly.  I also almost always apply cream shadow, cream blush and concealer with my fingers. 

These are the basic tools to get you started.  I will talk about other brushes I use often in the next installment of this series.

New to Makeup Series: Basic Face - Products to Get You Started

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This is a great day to day look that I often use to get me out the door quickly - my take on the five minute face.  It will not make you feel like you've overdone it - just accentuate your features in a few easy steps.  And the best part is that you can apply almost everything with your hands - only one brush required!

~ Start with a well moisturized face.  I really like Bioderma Sensibio Light (my review).  Apply lip balm.

~ To even out your skin tone, I recommed a mineral makeup.  It's easy to apply, feels light and looks natural.  To apply swirl a kabuki into the product (more on kabuki brushes I like), shake off any excess and buff into the skin in circular motions.  As a starter, I rcommend MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural.  It has a light to medium coverage, comes in a nice compact (as opposed to loose powder) and it's easy to get matched to the right color by the sales associate.  I also like Everyday Minerals, but it's tricky to find your shade.  I do not recommend Bare Essentuals because it contains the irritant bismuth oxychloride, which made my face itch like it was on fire!

~ Fill in any gaps in your brows with an eyebrow pencil.  Maybelline Define-A-Brow works well and is cost effective.

~ Apply a thin layer of cream eye shadow to your lids up to the crease with your finger and blend edges with q tip or clean finger befor it sets.  A neutral golden tone works well for me.  My favorite is MAC groundwork paint pot.  Benefit also has some great creaseless cream shadows.

~ Add a light highlight to the inner corner of the eye, top of your cheek bone, and under your brow.  I love Benefit Eye Bright or Benefit High Beam.  Just dab onto the skin and blend with your fingers.

~ Line the eyes as close to the top lashes as possible with a brown eye liner pencil.  Don't be afraid to be messy.  Then smudge out with a q-tip.  Only line the bottom lashes 1/2 way for a natural look.  I love Prestige Waterproof Liners - creamy, easy to blend, last all day and CHEAP (can be found at most drug stores and Ulta).

~ Finish eyes with mascara.  Make sure you start application at the base of the lashes.  I love Maybelline Lash Blast in Black.

~ Dab some cream blush on the apples of your cheeks and up towards your temple and blend up towards the temple.  Start with a little bit and add if you need to.  Dab some cream blush on your lips for some color.  I love Bobbi Brown's Pot Rouge in Powder Pink for a natural flush.

~ Finish with some gloss or more lip balm to moisturize lips - Burt's Bees is my fave.

And VOILA! You're done!

Let me know how this worked for you.  What are your favorite neutal colors?  What's your everyday quick makeup look?  How long does it take you to do your makeup in the morning?

Stay tuned for the next installment - makeup tools.

New to Makeup Series: Get a Little Help from Your Friends

You decide one day that you want a more polished look.  Or you get invited to a formal gala.  Now what???  The best way to get started is to get a litte help.

FRIENDS

Do you have a friend or acquaintance who always looks polished and put together?  Do you wish you could get the look that they seem to effortlessly achieve every morning?  Then I encourage you to ask that person for help.  It can be intimidating to approach someone out of the blue and ask them for advice.  However, I can assure you that there is absolutely no better compliment than being told that you look so goood that someone else wants to look like you!  I am sure your friend would love to go to the makeup counter with you, and may even recommend a good makeup artist that they know at one of their favorite counters.  And if they're just an acqanintance?  Then this could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

MARY KAY

As I've previously mentioned, I my first makeup routine was care of a Mary Kay party, and it was a positive experience.  However, this may not always be the case.  Ask around for a good consultant in your area.   It may seem strange to seek out a Mary Kay party, but you can always bring a friend.  And don't feel pressured into buying a bunch of stuff you don't want or need.  You can also order online, though you miss out on the personalized makeup lesson.

On the whole I think the strength of Mary Kay makeup is neutral, wearable, everyday makeup.  They also have new looks put together by their makeup artists in each catalog, which are also available on their website.  They give you the colors they used in each look, as well as application instructons.  Check out their all in one compact, which is great for traveling and keeps all your colors in one place.  I also enjoyed their medium coverage foundation, which feels light on your face and gives you an even complexion.  However, beware of their bath and body products, which are very perfumey.

May Kay is quite a controversial makeup line in some circles.  Its poor reputation is mostly rooted in questionable business practices that have resulted in unhappy ex-consultants.  My experience with Mary Kay has been positive.  I really enjoyed the makeup I have tried, and the guidance I got from my consultant was great.

MAKEUP COUNTERS

Most department store makeup counters have someone on hand that will be more than happy to paint your face.  And most will do just that.  Unfortunately, you will walk away looking like a clown.  I have had many such experiences.  In fact, just after Christmas I went to my local Clinique counter looking for a new foundation.  The sales lady gave me a sample of foundation and then showed me their limited edition holiday collection.  The collection was an absolutely lovely assortment of pink, plum, and purple hues.  The blush in that collections was absolutely fantastc - a very finely milled pinky plum that went on like a dream.  I was so impressed by that darn blush that I allowed myself to be talked into a makeup look using those colors.  My sister found me ten minutes later, looking so clownish that she had to walk away so that she wouldn't burst out laughing right in front of that poor sales lady.  There was a noticeable gap between my lashes and my cream liner.  My eye shadow was completely unblended.  My blush was applied too heavily.  I had on BRIGHT pink lipstick (the shade was actually called EXTREME PINK), and the highlight under my brows was WHITE.  If this was my first makeup experience, I would have left that store in tears of frustration and disappointment.  All the colors suited me well.  Yes, that includes Extreme Pink Lipstick.  The problem was that they did NOT all belong on my face TOGETHER!

Here are some tips on how to avoid a similar experience.

- Ask the person if they are a trained makeup artist.

- Ask around or search the web for recommendations of makeup artists in your area.  Check out makeup forums, such as Specktra.net, and don't be afraid to post questions.

- Take a look at the artist's makeup.  Look for makeup that is well blended (think GRADIENT of color, and not STRIPES), paying special attention to eyes and cheeks.  And don't worry, just because the artist is wearing really bright colors does not mean that she will apply those colors to your face, unless that is what you are after.

- When you find someone you like, make an appointment.  Avoiding peak mall hours will ensure that the artist has plenty of time to devote to you an is not constantly distracted by other customers.  Book the appointment during the day, so you can look at yourself in daylight.

- Tell the person that it's your first time getting your makeup done, and give them some guidance as to the type of makeup you are after (more polished, neutral, day-to-evening, formal event, bold lip, etc.) and ask for tips and techniques while they apply the makeup.

- If there is something you do not like, tell them.  For example, if the lipstic is too bright, ask for a more neutral one.  Alternatively, if the lipstick is so neutral it completely mutes down the color of your lips, ask for something with more color.  Too pink?  Too brown?  Too red?  Let the artist know.

- Once your makeup is done, go outside and look at your face in daylight.  How does that foundation look?  Foundation should even out your skin tone, but it should still look like skin.  It should feel light on your face.  There should be no color variation between your face, neck, and decollete.

- Keep in mind when booking your appointment that you will be expected to either pay for the appointment or purchase products.  For example, there is a $50 fee for a MAC makeup appointment, or you need to buy at least $50 worth of product.  Keep in mind that the artist just spent a significant amount of time with you when they could have been selling products to other customers. 

- You don't have to buy EVERYTHING the artist recommends.  It is perfectly acceptable to ask them to write down the names of the products you are not buying after your appointment so that you may go back and purchase them later.  If there is something you didn't like, don't get it.  And keep in mind that the drug store has lots of very good quality mascaras and plenty of brown eye shadow and liners, all for a lot less money.  However, foundation and concealer are very hard to match by yourself, and the drug store has thousands of lipstick shades that don't have testers. So prepare to be able to say NO THANK YOU to products you don't like or aren't sure about.

- Counters I recommend: MAC, NARS, Bobbi Brown, Chanel, Estee Lauder and Laura Mercier.

I would love to hear how it goes, so keep me posted on your progress.  And come back for the next installment of this series, where I will recommend a handful of products that are a good starting point for an everyday look.

Best of luck!

New to Makeup Series: How I Got Started

All my life I have been surrounded by women who do not wear any makeup.  I have had many questions about makeup from the tomboys in my life.  The first one being, where do I start?  I didn't start wearing makeup until I was in grad school, so I know where these women are coming from.  Not only is the vast selection of makeup intimidating, a girl who never wore makeup is not going to feel comfortable with a full face of bold colors. 

I learned my first regular makeup 'look' at a Mary Kay party.  The consultant is a good friend, and an excellent makeup artist.  She picked out the right shade of foundation for me, and the colors she chose for the rest of my face were very neutral and did a wonderful job of accentuating my best features.  I ended up spending quite a bit of cash on makeup that day, and walked away with the medium color foundation and a 'look compact' of three eye shadows, a blush, a lipstick, and two stubby little makeup brushes.  Add mascara and I was good to go.  10 minutes in the morning to a brand new, more polished me.  And the best part?  I got so many complements on how I looked good, even though most people couldn't figure out what I had done differently!  WOW!  I loved those products, and used them regularly for about a year before I started to branch out into other brands and colors.

I realize now that I was one of the lucky ones.  I have since heard countless accounts of 'professional' makeovers which made somebody look like a clown.  If you have seen the movie The Truth About Cats and Dogs, you know what I'm talking about.  As such, I will be doing this series as an intro to makeup.  So if you're a tomboy like me, or someone who wants a more polished look, or you have a special date or event, stay tuned.  And feel free to ask questions!